ROAD TRIP
The joy of a road trip is in knowing the unknown. A drive from Mumbai led us to discover the hidden treasures of the Western Ghats.
As serial road trippers, my husband and I always look for reasons to get out of the city. We love to drive. He, much more so. You have to quiz him about cars to know how much he loves the highways and the wheels that take him there. We live in Mumbai. The best season to get out of the city is Monsoon. Lush green views abound and the roads are rapturous with blooms. Chasing the monsoon in Maharashtra on a road trip has become an annual affair that we eagerly look forward to.
This year, El Nino delayed the monsoon but fortunately July started off well with the showers. The temperature has come down conspicuously letting us make use of the first opportunity and weekend to take our Yeti out of the garage. Being part of a family who can never agree on travel destinations, our choice was unanimous. We decided to drive up to the Sahyadri hills.
During monsoon, the Sahyadri range comes alive in all its vividness: riotous fields of bright colours embrace you at every turn. Nestled amidst it, a small town Bhandardara beckons city dwellers to rest in its plenitude of natural beauty. There are takeaways for everyone – the serenity of the hills for those who prefer a hideout, the rustic charm of country life for the city slicker, and the peaks and forts for the adventurous soul.
We started at 6 am and before we knew we had crossed Thane and were on the Mumbai Nashik highway. There are a couple of nondescript dhabas on this highway that welcome you to take a break. We stopped for chai and pakoras, indisputably, the perfect Indian snack for a rainy day. To me, this chai break really marks the beginning of a road trip. You may have started your drive early but unless you have stopped for your first cup of tea at a roadside stall, you have not really begun your trip. The adrenalin needed for the drive has not kicked in. And you have not really woken up to your surroundings.
A little while after, we hopped back into the car and drove toward Kasara. Soon after we had crossed it, we could see the hills of Igatpuri looming in the distance. We drove slowly to take in the views of the landscape that seemed to have received a new lease of life. The winding road was circumscribed by unending pastures of green. Misty hills played hide and seek and a pregnant sky was waiting to sing. As I watched from my window, I had an instant desire to jump out and hug the clouds.
At an altitude of 3,000 feet above sea level, Igatpuri is a hill station well known for the Dhammagiri Academy that teaches Vipassana meditation. We debated about the detour but decided against it. The weather teased us, wrapping the road in a big blanket of mist. White furry balls appeared before us and disappeared almost instantly, making us euphoric, at the same time, edgy about what lay ahead.
We continued on NH3 and turned right at Ghoti. This is the same road that leads to Shirdi, Maharashtra’s most famous pilgrimage, where thousands of visitors throng every day. At Pimpalgaon, we took another right, towards Bhandardara. As we descended, the scenery transformed. The sky lost its gloom. A sudden brightness cast upon us. The ground looked like it needed nourishment from the rain. The crops glowed in the sun. The duality in the topography surprised us. Albeit a short stretch, we were delighted to be driving through fields of gold.
A few kilometres up ahead, the mist was back. And not too long after, rain came down in pinstripes over the rolling grasslands. For us front seaters, this was the best part of the drive: to watch the rain dance on the windshield as we went up and down the undulating road.
Situated at an altitude of 2,800 feet above sea level, Bhandardara is a valley of treasures: a tucked away, sleepy hamlet surrounded by rain-kissed mountains, cascading waterfalls and lavish lakes. The Pravara river, the lifeline of this village, meets you at every bend. The Wilson Dam peeks out of the misty sky and dense clusters of mango and jamun trees appear here, there and everywhere, occasionally parting in the wind, to offer a glimpse of the river traipsing by.
If I have to pick one among all of Bhandardara’s natural gifts, I would choose the Arthur Lake. Mount Kalsubai and the majestic old dam are its two guardian angels but it is the lake that is at the centre of all its beauty. I can spend countless hours camping by its side, watching the stillness of its waters. It is the perfect spot to transcend into its ethereal state of being.
During the day, we ambled around the village haat to soak up the sights and sounds of country life. Village menfolk dressed in white dhoti-kurta and Gandhi caps milled about the bazaar haggling for local produce and the fresh catch of the day. Every car that passed by its narrow lanes was almost inevitably stopped by the natives, asking if its passengers needed a guide. They seemed to be very enterprising in offering their services as guides for sightseeing.
After two days of indolent bliss spent in cottages that overlooked the forest on one side and the lake on another, we were ready to head out again and drive up close to the hills. We started on Ghatghar road toward Kokan Kada, nearly 25 kilometres away. This cliff is said to be a hiker’s paradise. The road that leads to it belongs to the Forest Department and the area has been officially declared as Harishchandragad sanctuary. We paid a toll of Rs 130 and started on a drive that presented the most spectacular views of the Sahyadri range.
With the rise and fall of a verdant vista, we watched clouds wander and hang above thatched houses, outside which many a village woman tended the fields. The occasional Kawasaki Ninja rider, on the way back from the peak, passed a smile, sometimes waved at us. The road flanked by meadows looked ready to break into an extravagance of colours. In another month the scenery will have changed again – from an expanse of green to the myriad shades of blooming wildflowers. The last leg of our trip led us to discover that the Ghatghar countryside is one of Maharashtra’s best hidden treasures. Come to think of it, whoever said, save the best for last, said it right.
POCKET GUIDE
Best way to travel:
At around 170 kilometres from Mumbai, Bhandardara is best travelled byroad. The other option is to take a train from Mumbai to Igatpuri, and then take a taxi to Bhandardara, which is around 45 kilometres from Igatpuri.
Things to do:
Hiking/Trekking:
- Mount Kalsubai, at 5,400 feet, is the highest peak in the Sahyadris, and is suited for a day’s trek.
- Ratangad Fort, built about 2000 years ago and captured by Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj has the reputation of being his favourite.
- A trek to Harishchandragad fort at about 4,500 feet leads to the discovery of several caves. The Harishchandragad-Kokankada cliff offers a spectacular view of the Konkan plains.
Where to stay:
MTDC and Anandvan resorts are your best bets. There are a couple of home stays as well.
What to eat:
- Always ask for the fresh catch of the day. At the time of our stay, the waiter who served us at Anandvan asked us to try the ‘Chopra’ fish, apparently fetched from the lake. It is best had crisply fried. For reasons unknown, he humorously referred to it being named after the famous Ms Chopra from Bollywood.
- Don’t miss country poultry cooked in coastal style.
Edited: *Ms Chopra from Bollywood is now the most famous desi in Hollywood.
This post was originally written in July 2014 and was published on this blog in 2016.
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